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Tutorial sulla correzione occhi (parte 3 di 7): COME TRUCCARE GLI OCCHI CADENTI

1024 710 Anna Dotti

Il make up per gli occhi cadenti è un make up correttivo, da usare tutti i giorni e nelle grandi occasioni per rendere meno visibile il difetto. L’occhio risulterà coerente ed in sintonia con la forma del viso ed il viso apparirà tutto più armonioso.

Tipica di questo occhio, è quell’espressione un po’triste, proprio perché tende a scendere verso il basso dando questo effetto un po’ malinconico. Proviamo a creare una linea immaginaria orizzontale al centro dell’occhio; se vediamo l’angolo esterno più basso della riga questo sarà il caso dell’occhio tendente verso il basso. Il trucco è quello di riuscire ad allungare e slanciare la parte finale, niente paura, grazie alle nostre illusioni ottiche troveremo una soluzione anche qui!!!

Come truccarlo

Questo tipo di occhio viene esaltato portando le sfumature dell’ombretto rivolte verso l’alto. Questa tecnica può essere realizzata anche quando semplicemente vogliamo rialzare ed enfatizzare qualsiasi tipo di occhio per renderlo ancora più protagonista. Anche qui la prima cosa da fare e prendere in considerazione le sopracciglia. Devi quindi pulire slanciando la parte finale, lasciandola comunque piena e dall’effetto naturale; puoi aiutarti anche con la linea ad “ali di gabbiano”. Infoltisci con l’aiuto di una matita, ombretto o crema specifica così da intensificarle.

La regola di base per ottenere un effetto corretto, è quello di utilizzare colori scuri all’esterno dell’occhio e chiari nella parte iniziale, centrale e superiore dell’occhio…

Una matita color panna sotto l’arcata delle sopracciglia, tende ulteriormente a creare un punto luce che espande l’occhio. Utilizzala anche all’inizio dell’occhio, così andrai a creare un punto luce che attira l’attenzione.

Con una matita nera vai a tracciare una linea per tutto il bordo superiore dell’occhio allungandoti verso l’esterno e rialzandolo leggermente staccandolo dalla rima ciliare, senza seguire quindi, la linea naturale. Con uno sfumino alleggerisci la riga della matita sulla parte più esterna, creando una sfumatura più omogenea possibile, senza toccare l’intensità centrale del rigo.

A questo punto mano agli ombretti, individua tre sfumature dal più chiaro al più scuro del colore che scegli. Parti dal chiaro all’inizio, sia al di sopra che al di sotto dell’occhio e sopra l’arcata sopraccigliare, (sfuma con il colore chiaro sulla punta finale dell’occhio, questo tenderà a spezzare e creare quell’effetto di allungamento, che deve essere leggero altrimenti creeremo un effetto un pò retrò); posiziona poi quello più scuro sulla parte finale seguendo la linea della matita dall’esterno, verso l’alto. Con il colore medio crea la giusta sfumatura d’incontro con i tre colori. Con il pennello dove rimane del residuo di colore scuro, sfuma sulla rima ciliare inferiore uscendo leggermente dalla riga naturale, al di sotto del punto luce già creato.

Distribuisci il mascara creando sempre effetto di allungamento, scegli un mascara volumizzante sulla radice delle ciglia superiori ed uno allungante sulle ciglia finali dell’occhio, creando comunque l’intensità sulla parte finale.

Nel caso hai la possibilità di mettere la matita nera anche all’interno della rima interna.

Aiutati anche con l’applicazione di qualche ciuffetto di ciglia finte della misura short sulla parte centrale, e medium sulla parte finale, per dare intensità allo sguardo. Completa il trucco nel resto del viso e se sei pronta per una serata speciale puoi spolverare un illuminante nelle zone dell’occhio colorate di chiaro. Una linea di eye-liner può esaltare ancora di più lo sguardo seguendo la linea della matita già realizzata.

Cosa evitare

Lascia l’utilizzo dell’ombretto nero solo a mani esperte, troppo scuro e applicato in alcune zone può provocare l’effetto opposto a quello desiderato.

Evita il Kayal all’interno dell’occhio, rende l’immagine più languida.

No all’applicazione del mascara sulle ciglia inferiori perchè abbassa lo sguardo.


La cosmetica odierna ha sviluppato centinaia di trucchi assolutamente funzionanti, in grado di correggere una miriade di imperfezioni, senza dover necessariamente rivolgersi al chirurgo plastico.

Tutte noi conosciamo l’esistenza di guaine dimagranti, reggiseni e pantaloni push up, imbottiture, stringi vita e via dicendo.

E gli occhi? Come fare per ottenere immediatamente uno sguardo più giovane o riposato? Ancora poco usati, ma vi assicuro che offrono una valido aiuto…

Di cosa stiamo parlando?

Adesivi per palpebre, da applicare sull’occhio, con immediato effetto lifting, efficace ed indolore.

Come funzionano?

Sono dei sottilissimi foglietti di silicone, a forma di lunetta. Possono essere trasparenti o color carne. Con colla solo da un lato o su entrambi (per aumentare il lifting). Si applicano molto semplicemente spingendo gli adesivi sulla palpebra, seguendone la naturale linea, nel punto più incavato.

Tale operazione tende la pelle dell’occhio “catturando” quella in eccesso, in modo da ottenere un vero e proprio lifting.

Detergi bene la palpebra e lascia asciugare perché la pelle sia pulita ed asciutta.

Questo garantisce la tenuta dell’adesivo. Aiutati con le pinzette, rende tutto più semplice; evita di prenderli direttamente con le dita per scongiurare l’effetto di pieghette sull’adesivo.

Una volta applicati sono totalmente invisibili e discreti, stanno al loro posto per ore senza muoversi. Per aumentare la tenuta è inoltre possibile aggiungere della comune colla per ciglia finte.

Nel prossimo articolo vedremo come truccare gli occhi distanti. Vai all’articolo.

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